I start off with the PCB, the longer one has a pad, the vibrator fit almost at the top, please not do not put too much solder because the round one will be fitted there. There a 805 style pads but I found out it didn't need a capactor there, just put a link across it.
the metal piece comes next crimp on the base of the longer piece
then the round one, check it with the soldering iron tip, making sure it does slide before soldering
checking the tip fully close in with the barrel, it should barely touch the inside of the PCB base.
Once the soldering iron is freely slide complete the soldering and recheck the slide with the soldering iron tip.
Next job and notice why the connector is needed, because it has spring so it can slide when soldering iron is pushed in.
take care, when the tip is fully in, the spring must touch the conductive barrel, there are 3 spring needed. 2 for the heater and one for earth.
wiring in, I correctly wired and as far I make out on the site, green for ground, blue and white for vibrator, and black and red for heater
then crimp the cable
slide everything in and making sure don't force it otherwise may damage easy.
now the connector
There is a number on the connector E= Earth to pin 1, +Heater to pin 2, sw from vibrator to pin 3, - and G goes on 4 and 5 respectively
I have this module but for time being this one is faulty till I find the fault.
- Current Mood: artistic
Yes I am running using Python on Linux to get the LCDs I2C.
And below I did it with Arduino IDE On The Air with the NeoPixels on the same board. It has ATMEGA328P-AU microcontroller base.
More to do on the new microcontroller, it is as easy as with Arduino IDE almost compatible.
I was playing with Nokia 5110 display below. It is called Tau and I also have firecricket too.
Both has 32 bit 48MHz microcontroller chip on board
And the 4 years old con badge, FWA 2012 base in Atlanta, Georgia. God level Sponser is wicked.
Nice dancers with me at the Haworth Steampunk.
This arduino board and another maker from Inhaos. Not the orinigal ATMega328P, it is similer but faster and a bit better ADC. MD328D
Some of the component came in pass few days. EPS-12F, LEDs 0805 and 0603(not shown), Si7021, Joystick, Firecricket, Tau (x2), RF24L01+ (micro), DS3231 and battery holder. Firecricket and Tau came from the kickstarter as well as Fireduino (see photo 2 top left).
This LEDs boards I made with design. I was going to put it inside the "Gun" next to the laser module. It will be glowing orange colour.
If my memory serve me well, point out where I got it wrong, it been like 30-40 years hidden in my brain. I am bit like Homer Simpson, one try to get in the other part falls out of my brain.
What is a Pulse detector? when sending a pulse signal in like 10 microsecond and detects metal it would change the tune, not like a reflect like VLF (very low frequency) it comes back like tune circuit depend on material, ferrous or non-ferrous. If it dies quicker that is ferrous like iron, the other way dies longer and that be ferrous like gold. If there is nothing, it tune to the centre between the non-ferrous and ferrous.
It can work out the different between a gold ring and pull ring from a can and they are very close together.
I just wonder increasing voltage would increase depth but no, already on 18 volt and can't go on because limited by circuitry. I was thinking current flow would be increase, again no, down to circuitry again, current limiting isn't the issue because it is already on the max output, Timing doesn't make it better, if you increase the timing you increase the temperture of the coil and decrease the life of a battery.
So, how to increase the depth of a coil to pick up something is to change the circuitry, a better heavy current mosfet, thicker coil winding, a better pick up without to much back emf which would damage the circuitry and don't forget a thicker tracks on PCB. All these are limit by price and finding the right parts and the weight.
// Mods for Chinese I2C converter board - Murray R. Van Luyn.
Using Arduino later than v1.6.6 (I have the latest version v1.6.11).
I update the "LiquidCrystal_I2C.cpp", find inside it with the lines (somewhere nearer 2/3rd to the end) show the earlier
see the return, it should be "return 1", thus
My latest PCB I designed to work with LCD 1602, 1604, 2002, 2004
Finally it is here ready made, thought it would take longer, I just order other parts now.
July 4th Eagle 3d printing.
My little computer, Cubit as Snowball Green. (Case was made 2003) the rest updated.
Turning servo into motor
label taken off because body joined together
3 wires to the resistor poteniometer removed
remove lugs from pinion
add 2x 10k
putting resistor where poteniometer wired
fold the resistors
everything fit. Now it is a motor with gears.
converting 2 motors into tank like steering with a single joystick
Continue with the new PCB
I been trying to get my PCB to work and found out the "crystal" may be the cause of it. I just started on the second PCB, just bare minimal with wiring up and test it from there and that seem to download and boot. I am not sure if download the full program into it, just to wait and see when I get some more parts into it.
Now that is working exactly how it is performed, microcontroller built on the pcb and will conecting directly to LCD.
Just to compare the old board on the left and the new board on the right, both are the same funtions.
Working on a magnetometer
and working on a drink of smeg
the above graph with a pair of magnetometer (yellow and blue) and differenial (red) the bracket above in between that when I sweep side to side.
the red is almost stable when a pair of mag is moving together about 8 inches apart at the moment.
second part below, first bracket is sweeping over metal ruler at verical with horizonal movement and the second bracket is horizontal with horizonal movement. The ruler in question is about 4 inches away from magnetometer.
I have modified thia plant with added neopixels, the bowl shades and neopixel holders made with my 3d primters.
To the update I added I2C to see the change, well less wires.
This little board which convert lots of wires to just a few, this is a clone LCD I2C. It also operate the backlight too.
Ok, pro mini and I2C together (the I2C is soldered in the back of LCD). Between them just 4 wires.
Another idea for LCD, using nokia 5110 LCD
I just work it out, you should find it easy to compare with other LCD.
I knew I got one somewhere, it is pretty old (at least 10 years).
messing with the gyro and oled display... *big grin*
One homemade battery. This does li-ion 18,000mAh, charge phone via usb, battery level indictor, batteries protection and a torch. All cost me barely £12.
I just recieved a macro lens (bellows).
you tell me the value of this resistor? (nice close up though).
It been a week without doing anything, bout of migraine, I put one photo to see what I got and doing.
end pieces for the batteries 18650, psu modules with LCD, new arduino stuffs from usa, smd ATMEGA328, ATTINY85, more magnetic plugs, psu in line, and just arrived just now (not in this photo) the balance charger and discharger.
My mum on my bike around 2007